TwD-2006

There are three permanent things in life, firstly you are going to die, secondly on the way to dying you will be taxed and the third permanent thing is things are going to change.  This trip is an example of the third!  From a six week extreme coast to coast (Key West, FL to Deadhorse, AL) Iron Butt Association challenge to a three part six week trip involving Jonathan and Jennifer it is now a two part USA and Spain extravaganza!

Part One:  Houston, TX, to Key West, FL to Houston TX.  I arrived in Houston on Day one of my June holiday.  I had grouped together my holiday entitlement so I could get four weeks (all of June from 1st through to 30th) of rest and relaxation and part of that R&R was a 14.5 hour traveling day from Newcastle to George Bush International airport Houston Texas.  Perfect flights and connections all under the mothering hand of British  Airways and a spot on arrival to have Lee's black Mustang muscle car pull into 'Passenger Pick-Up' as I arrived at the exact same spot; perfect.  Thursday and Friday were spent acclimatising and picking up my trusty stead for the ride to Florida and back.  An '06 Ultra Glide from Republic Harley Davidson; formalities over (I signed more forms than I had the previous week at Just Harleys Newcastle when I bought my new CVO Glide!) and it was onto a traffic jam on the interstate!  I had never seen so many cops.  It turned out a guy had robbed a bank, stole a car and shot a cop so they shot him as he made his escape; I'll let you all know when I find out how they are doing.  There were almost as many media people as there were police.

I managed to fit in a care home visit to Lee's mum, Netty, for my regular readers Netty was the girl I took to the Ball Game on the last TwD-2005.

Here she is in her little Miss Daisy hat.  We spent some time with the folks there and I vowed to visit on our return from Florida.

Another Texas steak BBQ, What will Jacquie say at Weight Watchers for my first Thursday in July weigh in?  I will honestly try to stay at my current 16st10lbs (three shy of my 1st June target of 16st7lbs) but hey I done good, lost well over 10% of my body weight and a total of 47lbs in about 60 weeks, again just shy of a 1lb per week which is a healthy way to lose weight and it is a whole lifestyle eating pattern change not a diet because for sure where most of us fall down is maintaining that weight loss; which I am tasked to do so you will be seeing less of me but for this four weeks, although not going mad on the eating front, I will enjoy my holiday!

So it is now 6am on Saturday 3rd June and Lee and I are taking an early morning ride to Goe's Harley Davidson about 35 miles South of Houston in Angleton, where three parts are waiting collection for my CVO Glide, you know the bike that has everything and needs no extras!

Sunday 4th June 2006 Day 1 of the ride.  It is 4am as I sit and write the first entry for TwD-2006 (Trip with Dave -2006) and the culmination of months of planning.  Planning is not essential but a plan does get the job done and ensures we are all singing from the same song sheet.  Planning also means the extension of the enjoyment to be gained from the trip in the first place.  It has been a comfort heaven to exercise the ideas and aspirations of the trip for the fifteen months since TwD-2005 ended and plans for TwD-2007(A) and Twd-2007(B) are now in their infancy; something to look forward to.  Today is scheduled for a 310 mile run to Denham Springs, LA.  We plan to take the Sam Houston Beltway anti clockwise around Houston - I'll show you!

As you can see we intend to stay off the Interstates to run through small town America along US highways, yes it is still alive and kicking, so we shall see what the open road has to offer us today; and of course see how our new riding buddy, Dave Lake, fits in. 

I sprung that one on you!  Dave Lake is a friend and work colleague of Lee's and he is joining in on the trip.  He arrived yesterday with his wife Maureen and their two, of three, children, Kathleen and Ryan; we had a BBQ (that Texas Steak is to die for) and got to know each other before our 06:30 scheduled morning departure.  Well now 04:45 and time for me to get my kit squared away so I am ready to rock 'n' roll when Lee comes calling!

Debris is a constant problem on US Highways, I don't know why but everywhere I ride in America there is debris in the road; mostly tyres but very many animals; so far I have seen - Armadillo, Raccoon, various birds, Dogs and many unrecognisable piles of stuff.  Another thing I noticed was a lot of evidence of Katrina storm damage.  One example was one of those tall MacDonald's signs that was all scrunched up and looked more like a 'W'!  I had a real Cajun lunch in Fried Prawns, Dave and Lee had gumbo - sort of a fish/chicken based soup!  But all three of us enjoyed what we had and the Southern hospitality was alive and kicking in Fausto's, Kinder, LA.  Night time we had more Cajun food in Crawfish and crab which was delicious.  Overnight in Best Western but their WiFi was suspect.

Monday 5th June 2006 Day 2 of the ride.  We decided to have an early start so at 6am we were ready to Rock & Roll from Denham Springs, LA to Pensacola, FL (260 miles), and excitement all around as every cop in the county was descending on a side street two blocks from the hotel and on our way out of town we saw further back up racing in - a cop on a Harley really smoking then a SWAT truck with a cruiser running interference. 

Breakfast in Cracker Barrel, Hammond and what a feast, I felt right at home even though it had been 15 months since my last visit to the 'cookie cutter' (in marketing terms 'heterogeneity' meaning they all look the same) but this one was run like a 'Mom & Pop' establishment and was perfect.

Lee decided to make up some time and run the middle section of the day on I12 and I10, also because two bridges were still out on US190 because of Katrina.  Just West of Slidell we got back onto US highways and had a brilliant run along the top of the Gulf of Mexico coast all the way into Pensacola and our Comfort Inn billet by 1pm.  Strip off and in the pool on arrival; just prior to stocking up on Budweiser and doing the laundry!  A good high speed internet connection and I was up to speed with the Archers; sad or what.  I also managed a couple of emails.

Our evening repast was in the aptly named sports bar 'Brews Brothers' and they had 47 different draft beers, but only one diet Cola!  So another day, another dollar in debt, but a wonderful fulfilling day in the saddle of a HOG, good riding companions and interacting with the good ole Southern folk.

Tuesday 6th June 2006 Day 3 of the ride.  Pensacola to Perry, Florida all the way on US98.  Early start again to get some miles in the cool of the morning and to breakfast at Fort Walton Beach and a Colorado Omelet at IHOP (International House Of Pancakes) which I can thoroughly recommend.  Many military folk were breakfasting too and we figured they were getting ready for D-Day memorial tributes; as we were in a very military area, this was confirmed riding towards Panama City when two F15 Tomcats did a very close formation fly by for us.  There were many fighters circling, training and generally dodging the bright blue sky's and we were soon surrounded by even brighter blue seas.

As we crossed a raised roadway along the edge of the North East Gulf of Mexico coast at eye height a squadron of Pelicans gave us our second fly by of the day!  To the East of Panama City we came across a wonderful beach area called Mexico Beach and for about ten miles this looked a very nice place to have holidays.  The riding was spectacular and I crossed a line of safety. I had drawn, by riding only in a t-shirt, which is something I avoid on safety issues but it was so hot; I think it was less safe than having no jacket.

At the last fuel stop, at about 50 miles West of our target destination of Perry, FL, Dave Lake and myself decided to check out Capital City Harley Davidson in Florida's capital city Tallahassee, on the way to which we were treated to our third Fly By of a C130 thundering low over the highway to its landing.  Garmin did the business and soon had us at the front porch of Capital City Harley Davidson, how is this for a Harley Dealer? 

We also meet a couple of couples riding from Kentucky to Georgia and asking this limy (me) the way around Tallahassee!  I of course could not help but I did promise to get their mug shots on the Internet!  Here they are:

Inside the store to check out their wares and just what I was looking for, but did not know it, a hot weather jacket so I could now wear protective clothing and not fry!  Dave also got a cool t-shirt for his son Ryan. 

Now we had to catch Lee up and a super fast run on I10 then south on US 27 we arrived just after Lee to the best reception I have ever experienced from Wayne S.Jones, Guest Services Manager at Hampton Inn, South Byron Butler Parkway, Perry (US27Alt, about a mile south of town centre).  This guy is the epitome of what a good hotelier should be.  During check in we got the whole 9 yards including a complimentary ice cool bottle of water!  There were complimentary snacks and beer for all the guests anytime; not one thing was too much trouble for Wayne and that is why every room was taken.  I watched Wayne help a couple of travelers by calling ahead to book a room as he had none, such exemplary service is rare and I have no hesitation in commending Wayne's establishment to you!  But call ahead as I bet he is often full, 1-800-HAMPTON.

So one more perfect day in the saddle and we are due in Lee's condominium at Siesta Key tomorrow, while Dave Lake fly's home to Houston for an important business appointment but he will return!

Wednesday 7th June 2006 Day 4 of the ride.  Hampton Inn, Perry came up trumps once again with a more substantial breakfast so we partook and left at 7am as Dave had a flight back to Houston from Tampa, we'd ride together to Homosassa Springs where we'd have a group hug and go our separate ways.  It was a beautiful ride south on US19. arrow straight and very light traffic but we had to watch our speed because the local constabulary where omnipresent.  As Dave road off; into the sunset so to speak, Lee and I rode across country to I75 and had a faster run south to Siesta Key because we did not fancy riding through downtown Tampa and were therefore nice and early at Lee's condominium.  Within a few minutes we were on the 'sugar sand' which is snow white and like silica, there were 12 on the condominiums private beach which Lee thought was too busy!  Some shopping and a wonderful evening meal then watch the 2 minutes 11 seconds as the Sun went down.

Early to bed as I had a 375 mile day tomorrow.

Thursday 8th June 2006 Day 5 of the ride.  On my own!  Dave was now back in Houston for his business meeting, Lee had chores to do at his condominium and I had a 800 mile round trip to Key West.  I set out at just after 5am and there was a cop in the grounds with his cruiser lit up!  He was not after me though.  A wonderful cool early morning run as the Sun came up over my left shoulder.  I intended to use I75 all the way to South of Miami so I could enjoy the 150 mile run along the Keys.  I did a 150 mile hit and stopped for Gas and a healthy banana, oatmeal bar and OJ for breakfast then another fast run across 'Alligator Alley' listening to the Public Service radio telling me of the Worlds largest ecological project to recycle freshwater in the Everglades over a 10 year period at the cost of several billion dollars.  I had also taken to listening to the religious radio broadcasts which I have to say were inspiring and uplifting whilst I cruised along towards Miami.

By ten am I was in downtown Miami at Peterson's, Harley Davidson; it had moved from the waypoint position I had in the Garmin GPS2610 by about a mile but to be fair it had only been gone six months or so.  It was billed as the Southernmost Coast to Coast mainland Harley Dealer.  So in my wonderings I have been to Tromso the Northernmost, now the Southernmost but let's be fair they all have some claim to fame, biggest, smallest, most bikes, nicest staff - you name it they claim it.  I filled my boots and got a couple of small items for the CVO Glide, that of course has everything!  I just had to have highway pegs because the extra draft up your trouser legs is so necessary!  A helmet lock was also called for!

Now the focus of my trip a ride along the Keys.  Fantastic.  I was impressed at every level.  So much to see and azure blue sea on each side, with beaches stretching for miles and cruising along on a masterpiece of the road builders art.  I have tried to give you a feel for this experience on a video clip; let's see if it works?  No it did not!  Sorry.

There are many unusual people in Key West and it is a very bohemian atmosphere, the two must do things are Duval Street and the sunset at the very end of mainland USofA.  But first the motel.  It was right out of 'art deco' 50's style and brilliant.  There were a load of people my sort of age partying in the pool, all with drinks, some with cigars and a right party atmosphere pervading the place; it was brilliant and I got to use my Best Western Good Guy Discount card plus full high speed WiFi - bliss.  A true blend of the very best of the old and the very best of the new.  The receptionist recommended Crabby Dick for my evening repast and with a surname like Badcock I thought she was taking the urine!

Web site updated, room like a pig sty (no Lee to keep me straight) and I hit Duval Street.  I was going to break my self imposed booze moratorium but having no drinking buddies with me I decided to take back a Margaretville Tequila glass for each of my riding buddies from the World famous Jimmy Buffet bar so we could have that drink together at the end of the ride.

After Jimmy's bar it was to the end of Duval Street and left onto the board walk at the end of America to join the party atmosphere of street theatre and the guys watching the sunset; it was a damp squid because of cloud but I did get the raison de'etre.

On my way back to eat in Crabby Dicks (it was not a leg pull) I had the fortune to be accosted by the owner of Cigar Alley, Fitzpatrick Street where he took me into his Cigar Humidor which was the size of the average living room - for a Cigar Humidor!  He was great and led me to two cigars of Tequila flavour for my two cigar smoking riding buddies, to go with their glasses.  Then chow time.  How's this for a boat figure head: not only was the ambience brilliant but the food was to die for, Turf and Surf was the meal of choice then home to Best Western for a well earned rest.

Friday 9th June 2006 Day 6 of the ride.  Up at 04:30 and on the road for five am and what about this for a picture: Sun rise over my right shoulder and a shadow of me on the highway over my left!  I saw very little traffic and was set to go directly North on US1, to US997 and on up to US27 leaving Lake Okeechobee to my East.  I rode on 'till about 10:00am and found a traditional US Highway eatery, loads of 18 wheelers on the lot suggested this was the place to have breakfast.  I mistakenly took a Spanish omelet and almost had my head blown of with the jalapeños; I fished those puppies out and enjoyed the rest.  Up highway 27 I noticed an Alligator farm and checked it out.  This was a left over from the halcyon days of the US Highway prior to the Interstate network when family America were on the road and no in car entertainment was available.  These establishments were built as a stop off for children's amusement and with the lower flow of passing traffic they are finding the economics hard.  But it was cool, in a tired sort of way, here is one of the residents:

This place farmed 1,000 crocodiles and alligators per annum so this is where your alligator skinned boots come from and the alligator meat in restaurants like Fausto's. 

Back on the road and I fancied visiting with Forrest Owenbaum at Lake Myakka River State Park.  He was the septuagenarian that Jennifer, Natalie, Jono and I had sailed with on the Lake Myakka air boat back in 1996 where we were shown all the wildlife that Forrest could spot - it was tongue in cheek; but Forrest was still captaining that boat!  He must be almost 100 now but with thirty years guide service in with the Park Ranger service he was still sharing his extensive knowledge.

On the way back to Siesta Key I checked out Rossiters (a Harley Dealer) which had moved and grown considerably since my last visit when it was much closer to downtown Sarasota.  It is now a Cookie Cutter (heterogeneity) style dealership but it did have many great exhibits of historical Harleys and the best being a '52 Panhead that gave me pleasure and information for my '51 Pan project.  I also managed a small movie file of it (which I still have not remembered how to post on this site!).

Then back at the Condo and all three riders were together once again.  A quiet night was called for , a quick walk to the village and an exceptional meal at The Lobster Pot, mmmmmm, lovely.  Sundowner on the balcony and bullshitting the evening away.

Saturday 10th June 2006 Day 7 of the ride.  Well not Day 7 of the ride but a rest day.  Just back from an Aromatherapy massage and a gentleman's manicure, not your normal 'Biker' day but I feel so good after that it is now time to hit the beach prior to our Ball Game.  The Ball Game was very quiet, only a few hundred were there but with two American experts I nearly understood what was happening.  A big milestone was I got a pensioners concession at $2.00 entry!  When she asked if we were over 55 I said of course (well I am only a few days shy) but to add insult to injury she said she was being kind by underestimating my age as below 55!  Well I nearly paid full price I was so insulted!

Sunday 11th June 2006 Day 8 of the ride. Choices.  The American dream all boils down to choices, our first choice was to rise at 4am and get the condo ready for the approaching tropical storm Alberto, due in Siesta Key in 72 hours, so our choice for the early start was to get well ahead of the storm and to get some miles done before the predicted low 90's heat of the day.  Second choice was what coffee to choose?  Check it out 18 different coffee's to pick from.  This massive choice was in a standard 'gas' station on a Sunday morning and each of the blends was sitting steaming there ready to serve up to the early bird customers.

We took the high speed I75 north making the choice to run the Interstates as we had 410 miles to knock off today and joined US90 towards Big Bend, FL and around the top corner of the state so we started to head West.  The Garmin came up trumps and allowed the choice to fit in a quick trip to a Harley Dealer at Gainesville, FL for free coffee and donuts, but the donuts were late!  I did mange to get a smaller bag to sit on the top of my tour pack mini rack on my CVO Glide.

We of course went through Lee, as we did 15 months ago on TwD-2005 and here is Lee and I with the same pose but over one year on.   Just for fairness a little later in the day here is Lee and Dave Lake.  The day was starting to warm up at about 93f and I was hot.  In fact so hot I broke of from the others about 30 miles shy of our nights destination to sit inside a Pizza Hut to cool off in the AC and slug a gallon of diet coke!  I soon caught up my riding buddies at our nights stop of Best Western, Marianna, FL and was cold showered and naked in seconds!  The other guys can't believe I insist on wearing a protective jacket, even if it is the latest Harley hot weather super cooling vented jacket; but all my rides follow the four 'S's" - Safety, System, Smoothness and Speed - but this safety clothing aspect would be tested over the last two riding days as the forecast was of temperatures in the high 90's in Houston, even a possibility of 100f!  How will I cope?

Monday 12th June 2006 Day 9 of the ride.  Another early start to avoid too much heat and a wonderful ride along US90 with the sun rising at our back, I have been practicing Dr.Doms machine control techniques - it helps me to get some pictures whilst on the move and this was one of my creative efforts using the shadow on the road.  We also managed to get a Mom & Pop restaurant for breakfast although the 'Pop' part of the deal was no where to be seen!  It was Sally's, a little west of De Funiak Springs, FL, and there was a buffet breakfast ready and waiting for the early rising traveler - our waitress served us fast and efficiently with breakfast and a never emptying mug of coffee.

Satisfied we were soon feed, watered and back up to speed running East ahead of Tropical Storm Alberto.  He may be upgraded to a hurricane but thankfully we are now well to the west of the predicted path of the storm.  The people on the route were hopeful that the main feature of this particular storm, heavy rain, would come their way as they are currently in a drought situation.

Just after our magnificent breakfast from Sally I had my first interaction with a State Trooper!  It was me who opened the interaction and thankfully not the other way around!  I had noticed a dead dog and cat on the East bound side of the road, looks like the dog died happy doing what came naturally, chasing cats, but it appears both got whacked by a passing vehicle!  The dog was large and I was concerned that a fellow motorcyclist may not see it, and if he had not been on Dr.Doms course, would not know how to handle the situation; as all this thought process was whirring away I noticed a Police Cruiser on the side of the road all lit up; so I pulled over and advised him of the hazard in the road, he thanked me and hi-tailed it up to the problem.

The weather channel is advising me currently that in Sarasota the streets are flooded from the leading edge of Alberto which has now been upgraded to a Hurricane, so we got out of town just in time.  The severe weather does continue and at our current location of Hammond, AL, just East of Mobile Alabama it is 100f.  With ice cold diet coke and Air Conditioning I am fine, but I do get very crabby whilst in the direct sunlight on the bike!

Tomorrow is our last riding day and tonight we are going to try one of our favourite 'Cookie Cutter' restaurants for an evening meal, not our usual breakfast, at Cracker Barrel; I'll let you know how it works out!

Good, real good.  Fried pork and strawberry with cream and shortbread not exactly weight watchers fare but hey I am on holiday!

Tuesday 13th June 2006 Day 10 of the ride.  The last riding day, ah!  It is currently 3am and I can't sleep so I have been checking through this report, also updating my correspondence (no one said this holiday lark was easy!).  Today the three of us have brightly coloured t's to wear.  I got us all one at the Southernmost Harley Dealer (Peterson's, Miami, Florida).  Obviously only I had ridden the full trip so should be entitled to wear this badge of honour.  But the way I see it this trip has been a team effort.  We have all brought something to the table, Lee the planning and meticulous execution of that plan, Dave Lake the balance and bright eyed enthusiasm of a first timer with us on a HOG Road Trip and me my long distance riding and Harley experience.  We have all gained something from the trip so let us see what Day 10 of the ride has to offer.

Excitement!  Whilst gassing up we heard and saw nothing; then a guy says, "Was that car there all the time?" and as if to answer his question a woman emerged from the drivers seat!  I was the only one to react and went across to see if I could help.  She had not been concentrating whilst exiting the Interstate and missed the curve at the bottom of the off ramp and ended up in the ditch.  She was shaken but otherwise OK, however the car was up to its axles in slimey, smelly mud.  I checked inside the car as she reported smoke but it was OK and the smoke had probably been steam as the exhaust cooled from the water in the muddy gulley.  I noticed her make up bag on the front passenger seat open and assumed she had been applying her morning slap!  This being the case my sympathy went straight out of the window and I left her to sort the situation out.  Inattentive drivers had been a factor of my observations, virtually everyone hand holding their cell phones, virtually everyone with a drink so I figured if we had been at the end of this particular off ramp then she could have creamed us because of her inattention to the main task in hand - driving.

It was a normal day in the saddle , knocked of a couple hundred miles in the cool of the morning on I10 and spent a leisurely afternoon back on US190, 12 and 90 from Lake Charles and through Beaumont entering Houston on the North East corner.  We took the Old Spanish Trail though the dubious suburbs of Houston and on a hot Twin Cam with peak afternoon temperatures it was hot to say the least.  Finally back in Sugarland it was a quick cold shower, change and all of us to Dave Lakes Mansion for an end of trip BBQ.  How are these for steaks, and how is this for a BBQ Grill!

Maureen (Dave Lakes wife) made us all very welcome and had prepared a banquet of a BBQ.  They had a wonderful American dream home in a gated community but I could not help wonder at what cost because I think this road trip was the first real holiday Dave had had in over 12 months.  He had a brilliant office at home, his blackberry was a constant companion and he had to interrupt his road trip to attend a meeting; of course we all make choices and at various stages of our lives those choices are influenced by all life factors but having taken June off to reach out, recharge and smell the roses this is what is right for me at this time in my life.  At a rapidly approaching 55 I am for ever getting bad news of the health decline of friends, for sure you need a certain amount of money, but money and things are not everything we are on this earth for but a blink of an eye and your life is not a test run; this is it!  So if you can then live your dream and always ensure you have a new dream to follow!

So that's it; three main statistics to ponder - 3123, 104 and 7.

3123 is the number of miles I put on Republics rental bike.  I enjoyed everyone of those miles, I saw many things and communed with those around me.  I went out of my way to be right neighbourly with those good ole Southern Folk and gained from it.  I rode with two great guys.  I savoured Sunrises with them and savoured Sunsets with them, we kicked tyres and bullshitted our way across five states, Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama and Florida.  Just what Harley ownership is about; Riding and having Fun.

104 is the max top out Fahrenheit temperature as we traversed Houston on the last afternoon ride; which is hot and the twin cam motor is renowned for its heat dissipation efficiency which is great for an air cooled motor but that heat has to go somewhere and a large percentage of it was around my testicle area!  Broiled sweetbreads!  This made the Kuryakin heat shield deflector purchase look like one of my better buys and I vowed to install them immediately on my return to my own bike.

7 is the number of pounds I added back to my bulk, and as I enjoyed each and every mile traveled I really enjoyed each and every pound gained, perhaps when I next see Jacqui (my Weight Watchers leader) I'll not think the same.

So there we have it a brilliant Harley riding Road Trip, go on you know you want to!