Milwaukee 2003

Day 0

The start of a 10,000 mile journey is the first footstep, so when did Ant & Dave’s incredible adventure start. Was it the pact in Ahoy Park at the HOG Euro Rally Tina Turner concert, 1998? Was it the CHIP’s style ride to Rochdale? Was it walking out of home, South Shields, or was it getting on the Avensis pacer DMU at Newcastle Central Station? It does not matter much now as it felt as if we had taken that first step.

I said my fond farewells to Jen on Central station and set up the laptop with Bullet and no sooner had the car chase started and I could see York Station.

Cheated by the York rush hour traffic Ant missed the train by seconds but I had decided to get off and join my riding buddy and get a later train, after all I had an open ticket, all evening and nowt’ else to do and we would need to depend on each other during this epic adventue!

Reasonable Journey to Manchester Airport and a call to our B&B and our hostess Annette came to collect us in her BMW.

The B&B was a beautiful 17C home, and at 6’3” the period beams were a challenge.

Finlay Green B&B, 134 Manchester Road, Wilmslow TeL: 01625 533343

Milwaukee 2003 Day 1

Up bright and early a fantastic full English and a second free ride to Manchester airport, what a good B&B. On the way we saw our first site of America, yes in Wilmslow, a field of Texas Long Horns!

Gerry found the correct door and our 30hour day of queueing started. Extra security and heightened alerts meant that all the ‘Jobsworths’ now had carte blanche to disrupt, abuse and generally piss you off! The first purchase was to get some reading glasses for Ant but more importantly a sexy Eau de Toilette spray to keep us rufty tufty bikers presentable for the 30 hour day!

Introducing ourseleves to Kylie for the eight hours in the TriStar, or whatever it was turned, out to be a good idea, she ensured the hours in the air were perfect. We had three good films, Booth, Tears of the Sun and Basic, several whisky and Canada Dry’s and hey presto Chicago! Kylie even gave Ant and I a carry out in the form of a bag full of miniatures; I guess travelling with characters does not happen every flight! Oh nearly forgot but the winner of Big Brother was aboard courtesy of BMI in first class with his film crew but I think Ant and I got the prize for flight entertainment.

Denver airport took to new heights the safety of people entering the USA. Clearing US customs in Denver took forever and their security delayed and wound up travellers who were having to show mega patience as we were shuffled from one queue to another to stand in line and jump through the hoops that some security guru decreed would weed out a dedicated terrorist. Little old ladies did not escape this result that terrorists had wanted to disrupt and piss off normal thinking civilised people to be persuaded their narrow minded Neolithic view of the World is the way forward all under the umbrella that they have a handle on what religion we should all support- arse holes!

Chicago O’Hare also had a Jihad against anyone who smoked!

Chicago to Denver was a revelation of a flight. United Airlines had a policy of putting the Air Traffic and Pilots communications on Channel nine of your seat head set. It was better than the in-flight movie and as a CB Ultra Glide rider I was picking up communication etiquette tips! Brilliant

Denver airport allowed the Nicotine Junkies a modicum of relief in the form of a tiny bar reserved for smokers – the bar was jumping! Mile High Harley Davidson boutique in the airport complex was the first time to view the ever expanding merchandise range that a simple 1903 Harley Davidson motor bike now has grown to support. The first new item that has managed to bamboozle me was a turned hand made wooden bar pump handle with a pewter badge extolling the 100^th logo – what next; watch this space as I am sure Ant and I will be able to report some really weird articles!

I knew the planes had been getting smaller but the Denver to Rapid City was a little chap.

Rapid City was all it was expected. We were too late for a steak but after a dozen cans of Bud (did not drink ‘em all, honest) and a sandwich we hit the sack in a small Family Inns Motel 3737 Sturgis Avenue, Rapid City.

Milwaukee 2003 Day 2

Today I was in HOG heaven!

The first HOG heaven moment was when I turned the corner in the Flying J Truck stop and Silver Dream was there in one piece and all her glory. ANT’s Moo Glide was right up front of the ‘Semi’ ready for the last collection. So after a fewanxious moments the two truck drivers got the Moo Glide out on the pavement ready to rock and roll.

The two trucks had brought the bikes from New Jersey, the port of entry, to this collection point and both the drivers had their own bikes ready to Party at Sturgis so we knew the bikes had been well looked after by fellow bikers. Formalities complete it was off to find a trailer for the Moo Glide.

I will admit that a trailer was not my idea however if my good mate George Young says ther’re OK then the least I can do is give it a try. Deal done and a whole morning of fun and Rapid City navigation and we were ready to check out HOG Heaven two. This was in the form of a visit to Black Hills Harley-Davidson.

Our first H-D Dealer on this trip and it was magnificent. Everything was on show. You name it and you could get it. It was my turn now, ANT had got his trailer and I had anew helmet on my shopping list and buying into the trailer idea meant that space was now not a problem. I managed to get a fantastic Arai lid complete with built in headset for the Glides sound system, awesome. The vendors could not be more accommodating. They really wanted our purchase to b e just right for u, and believe me it was.

I was told this system would be available in Europe next year after all the testing had been done to approve its use to European bikers – I say if it’s good enough for our brother bikers across the pond then it’s good enough for their allies.

HOG Heaven three was the ride North on I90 to the legendary Buffalo Chip. It’s legendary because it is what the camp ground is called but it is also Legendary because it is where Legends are made! We could have not been made more welcome. It would have been impossible. Anything we needed or wanted was presented to us before we realised we needed it! This was truly a legendary welcome. The sights the sounds the plethoria of Milwaukee Iron, the Tit’s! Wow! I can only publish this picture with the bosses approval because she knows after thirty years, despite Roy Cropper (the difference being I can hold my booze), I can be trusted as a one woman guy, so feast your eyes on the naked female bull riding amateur display.

Milwaukee Day 3

Saturday in Sturgis. Bed on Friday at 2am and up and at ‘em for 5.30am! How long can we stay a pace like that, well today is the second because Travis Tritt did a three hour set taking us to 1am and now its is 5.30am; lucky ANT and I went into training for this epic adventure.

We spent all day in Sturgis, taking in the sights and sounds of the biggest bike rally in the World, rally 63 so they are doing something right and that is providing exactly what bikers need and love. The day went so well. Scoping out the Sturgis dealer, all the bikes in Main Street and the Jack Daniels road show.

On the way back to the Chip we tried Full Throttle Saloon, it is billed as the biggest biker bar in the World and if you can ride your bike right up to the bar it surely is some size.

Back on the road and home to the Chip.

I had never heard of Travis Tritt and tonight I was to hear him live, the crowd

Day 4 Sunday 3^th August

Our new hosts, Billy, Russ and Jack invited us to ride the Badlands with them today and we jumped at the chance. Billy took lead and we were soon South of Rapid City and riding into the Badlands of South Dakota.

On the way back from the Badlands we decided to go once more to Black Hills H-D to get some odds and ends and to see what was happening. We met up with the buffalo bike!

Day 5 Monday 4^th August

This was the day that Mayor Mark Ziegler invited us to ride with him to Mount Rushmore. We had to assemble at 7am, these Americans like to start early! We had a Police, on Harleys of course, escort, about twenty road captains and a fire truck as the ride was to raise funds for the Sturgis Fire Department Volunteer service.

Signed up and we were off on the 133 mile round trip. We carved though the Sturgis grid locked traffic, nothing could get in the way of the Mayor!

Arriving at Mount Rushmore was brilliant. Once more being with Mayor Zeigler paid off, straight into reserved parking, free pop and candy bar and we were set for the group photo. About an hour at this magnificent monument was just about enough to learn a little of the task that Borglum took on when daring to carve the four presidents into the rock face.

Back a touring route through the badlands and we were back in Sturgis. We had a few jobs to do in Sturgis, phone home, charge up the lap top and get some Jack Daniels in.

Monday night at the Chip was Jethro Tull and boy did he do the business, another late night with our new found friends and our old friend Uncle Jack Daniels.

6 Tuesday 5^th August

The boys wanted to show us Devils tower today. As we rode out of the Chip we took a reflective moment at the Touring rememberance Vietnam wall. A blistering ride to Belle Fourche where we had our breakfast. The ride out West towards Devils Tower was brilliant, wall-to-wall Harleys. We stopped at Hullet WY for a drink where the famous No Panties Wednesday event takes place, lucky or unlucky but today was Tuesday! Devils tower was a truly magnificent natural phenomenon.

I finally got a phone call through to Jennifer fro the Circle bar in Belle Fourche. It took 37 individual numbers and a $20 phone card. I thought my tri-band phone would work in all parts of USA but apparently AT&T does not have a service in South Dakota!

On the way back we stopped of at the Full Throttle Saloon where the party was getting into full force. A quiet night and early to bed with earplugs to deaden the sound of the Party Animals who appeared to party 24/7!

Day 7 Wednesday 6^th August

Wednesday in Hulett, out by Devils Tower, is known as No Panties Wednesday – that’s why we went to Rapid City! We had been in Hulett the day before and bought the compulsory t.shirt extolling the virtues of No Panties Wednesday and wearing it around I got a lot of comments. It is really the wearing of a thong with chaps and there is a lot of that going on and all sizes do it; and I mean all sizes!

The trip into Rapid City was to get ANT’s Moo Glide some new rubber in the form of two new white walls. We left the bike at Black Hills Harley Davidson, in a line of about 60 bikes who were scheduled for lubrication or tyres, another queue of about the same number were for more serious work.

We checked out the Prairie Edge Indian store on Main and Sixth, if you are interested in the Lakota Sioux then this is the place to be. They had everything from bells for your war bonnet to a full size wigwam; and they ship!

Back to Black Hills to pick up the bike which of course was not ready on schedule then home to Buffalo Chip via Full Throttle Saloon. The dealer imports hundreds of technicians in from all over America to keep the hundreds of thousand bikes on the road.

Day 8 Thursday 7^th August

Today was ANT’s 52^nd birthday and we needed to celebrate in style by visiting Custer Park and Crazy Horse Mountain. We got a good early start and just South of Rapid City on US highway 16 stopped for breakfast. This was the first full USA breakfast; the stuff lard arses are made of.

Entry to Custer Park is $5 and you get an opportunity to get up real close to Buffalo. They are huge; I could only imagine the bravery of the Plains Indian who would hunt this huge beast armed only with a bow and arrow.

We also saw deer, goats and donkeys as well as breathtaking scenery. The scenery was so good that there were signs all over the park listing the films that were made there.

Heading out of Custer Park we went to Crazy Horse Mountain. Mount Rushmore was magnificent and Crazy Horse was equal to its close neighbour. Not finished yet and not scheduled to be finished till 2050 it is definitely worth visiting whilst in the area. The visitors centre is also equal and in some ways superior to its more famous neighbour. The Lakota Sioux have many vendor concessions and demonstrate native crafts. We were lucky enough to witness an Indian dance. I bought Jennifer an earring and necklace set from one of the vendors.

On our ride back to Buffalo Chip we experienced our first inclement weather in the form of a thunderstorm. It was so bad we had to take shelter under a highway overpass. Within minutes the road was a running river of surface water and we had a group of about fifty motorcyclists. It eased up to a down poor and we were back on the road. We were supposed to go to the Circle Bar in Belle Fourche as our friends there had ordered a birthday cake for ANT. But we were too late, but no matter to Jack and Russ. Russ strapped the beautiful cake with a cargo net to the back of his Dyna Glide and made it the forty miles back in one piece, what a guy; but the USA hosts were so special that another group had also bought a massive personalised cake for ANT. In a strange land the locals had pulled together to ensure ANT’s 52^nd would be one to remember, and to follow Alice Cooper. I think Poison was the only song I recognised but I am a bit of a Philistine when it comes to music, I know what I like but I can never remember all the names and stuff that goes with a music buff!

Day 9 Thursday 8^th August

The plan fell apart today because AT&T could not get a signal to my mobile!

Let me explain. Some good friends of mine, Linda and Stuart Lawler were to be married at Harney Peak, SD, and we were to get the details via our mobile phones but because we could not get a signal and the venue details were sketchy we could not find the wedding. Our efforts to find the wedding were gargantuan but to no avail. It was a bit like a Carry On movie – ‘Someone stole our wedding!’

The day started off fine, seeing our friends, Billy, Russ and Jack pull off the Buffalo Chip bright and early we struck camp too. ANT’s new trailer took the problem of getting six weeks gear on to two Harleys, but could I ride at 60mph for 10,000 miles! The boys from Cleveland had donated two camp chairs to our adventure and they easily fitted into the trusty trailer. I’ll keep you posted on how I get on with it.

The ride to Harney Peak went right by Mount Rushmore and I had heard you could see the back of Washington’s head so we had a look.

We rang their mobile and left voice message but of course they could not get the call. We searched all the wedding type venues, all to no avail.

At least we found a nice log cabin, with out door Jacuzzi, soft beds and ensuite, total luxury after seven nights in a tent for only $22.50 each, wow.

Day 10 Saturday 9^th August

This was to be the first real days riding, we were to head out West towards Yellowstone Park. The plan was to take US Highway 16 West from Custer and head as far as Cody.

We were on the road by 6am and rode South past Crazy Horse Mountain once more, and it looked wonderful in the early morning light. We fuelled up in Custer and were served by a Somerset girl who had emigrated to USA for the love of a good man. The morning ride was fantastic, a steady 55 to 60mph through the morning sunshine. Deer strikes are common in the morning and evenings and I was aware of the danger as in the first fifty miles we saw three dead deer at the roadside. We entered Newcastle, spooky eh, and rode out of Newcastle and I had my first near miss with a deer.

It was inside the City Limits and this young deer popped out right in front of me, I was very surprised, and vowed to be even more vigilant in future!

The best part of today’s 350 miles was Tensleep Canyon. The canyon is not done justice by words or even the photos, you have to ride it to appreciate the grandeur, a truly awesome ride.

Tensleeps got its name from the local Indian tribe, the town was on a trading route and was ten sleeps from home. Distance was measured in how many nights sleep it took to get there.

We also saw a pair of Moose at the road-side. They were huge and I would not like to run into one of those babies on the road!

We found a small motel on the edge of Greybull, it had a lovely floral arrangement on the front porch. Great facilities but no internet connection was possible. The first job was to wash the bikes and the second to get beer in!

$3.00 invested in a jet wash and an hour or two on the front porch chatting to fellow biking travellers we the two bikes looking like new pins. I also used Mike Byers trick of the Glides panniers as cool boxes. Thanks Mike it worked great!

Tomorrow is Yellowstone and Teton national parks. What is in store for us?

Day 11 Sunday 10^th August

We got a very relaxed start today. We spent some more time speaking to Andy, a law enforcement officer and his son Kelvin. The main topic was his handgun and how Andy rationalised that everybody should carry a side arm! I am not convinced, but he did know about Tony Martin and I did agree with him that Mr Martin should not have been dealt with so harshly as thieving scum deserve all they get and the good guys should bite back; but then that is another can of worms.

Arriving in Cody we fuelled up and spent some time in a hunting, shooting, fishing emporium. They had enough firepower on sale to equip a small army! The walls were covered with trophy heads and pictures of successful hunts. Taxidermy is alive and flourishing in Wyoming. The main reason to visit Cody was to see Buffalo Bill’s museum. At $15 dollars each it had to be good and I can report it did not disappoint.

We spent a couple of hours checking out the exhibits and once more guns were very prominent. People walk around everywhere with large hunting bowie knives strapped to their thighs – what for I do not know! They can also carry handguns, but I did not notice any.

Leaving Cody we headed west on US14 to the East Gate of Yellowstone Park. Yogi and BoBo were not on hand to great us but the Ranger was and he wanted $15 for the privilege of riding through the park. It started to rain as we entered and whilst calling home we got chatting to some fellow Harley Riders. The main point that they tried to get over was how hot it would be in the desserts of Southern California and equally hot in Texas – started to get a bit nervous!

The thunderstorms were short and heavy; we got very wet but dried off equally quickly when the storm passed. Lightening was tremendous and it was setting parts of the Forrest alight only to douse it out during the next storm. We turned South in the park and excited Yellowstone via the South Gate (still no sign of Yogi or BoBo!), but we had seen Buffalo, Moose, Deer and even American Bald Eagles. We entered the Grand Tetons and crossed a river called Pelican Creek, as we did amazingly three very large Pelicans did a fly past!

Day 12 Monday 11^th August

America is BIG. It is not BIG with a capital B but it is BIG with a capital I and capital G too! Today we did four states one time zone and only made little progress against the continental fold out map we have! 456 miles of leisurely riding and sorting out our life type chores.

The ride started at sun up and we rode US89 south from Afton towards Salt Lake City. US 89 has to be one of the best scenic rides you can make. It is undulating forested and has lakes along the 100 mile ride. We stopped just short of Salt Lake City and in a small hick town store asked to use the toilet only to be informed they did not have one but I could use the Porta John (Loo) two blocks away, just take the Honda quad bike! First time on a quad bike but it had to be done.

We chose Brigham City about 15 miles north of Salt Lake City to breakfast, laundry and internet connect. Bert’s Dinner had been established in 1926 but it had a true 50’s feel about it and the breakfast was brilliant. ANT offered to do the laundry and I set off to Internet Connect.

Brigham, although boasting City status, does not have an Internet Café, so I tried the library. At the library it was bustling with Mom’s and school holiday kids, it had Internet but no facilities for me to hook up. But wait US hospitality was about to shine. One of those young Mom’s offered me her ASDL facilities and she only lived four blocks away so it was off to her typical US home with her three children to hook up. Morgan, the eldest daughter, had guessed I was English and won the bet with Mom who thought I was Australian which many Americans think.

We achieved all the day’s chores except the Barbers! ANT was rightly disgusted at my hankies, as Jennifer has often times told me, but good to his general hail fellow well met attitude completed the laundry task with aplomb!

We skirted Salt Lake City as the GPS advised and started to head west on I80. Salt flats, miles and miles of Salt flats. This was the Great Salt Lake Dessert and we crossed 100 miles of it. We even rode over Bonneville Salt Flats ending at the race track at Wendover on the Utah and Nevada state orders.

Day 13 Tuesday 12^th August

We left Elko at first light and it was a chilly 63 degrees farenheit, not used to these cold starts, and headed out west on I80. ANT and I got a routine going with the truck drivers as they passed us to get them to blow their air horns so I could respond with my BJ air horns, a little thing but it helped to while away the monotonous miles on the interstate.

One of the best responses we got was from the Corbin rig which looked exactly like the one we had visited in Lazelles Avenue, Sturgis SD, could we have got a free ride back to Hollister for my ride in seat? On the East bound side we had been seeing lots of great old cars and hot rods, and the answer was given to me on the Ultras radio in that at the weekend it had been Hot August Nights in Reno. The Sturgis of the Hot Rod World, apparently.

Having done about 2,500 miles since leaving Blighty we organised an oil & filter change, it was a Kawasaki dealer but they had Harley oil and filters so we went ahead and got it done.

We were making reasonable time and if we had the time could have stopped to take pictures of some of the town names, a good example being Pumpernickle! Some of these lazy places had Interstate turn off’s and populations of 27! So why build a turn off?

I had my first close shave today – ANT got a cut-throat razor shave in Wendover at a traditional Barbers, on the house even – but I am not talking about that sort of shave. As one of the friendly big rig drivers passed one of his 36 wheels spat up a stone, I just saw it from the corner of my eye. I turned my head and it hit my lovely new helmet, chipping a lump out. Two inches to the right and my check would have certainly been cut. But that’s what helmets are for and I was glad not to have been tempted to exercise my No Helmet Law right. ANT had black touch up paint and the helmet is now good as new. You had to ask why he had touch up paint I suppose you could equally ask why he had a kilt in his kit!

More desert and finally the forty mile dessert. Water had to be hauled twenty miles so use it carefully, I had to pump it over my t.shirt (notice and Over the sea to Skye long sleeve) just to cool a little. Even hauling twenty miles I could not resist the chance to cool down. I rode with a wet t.shirt which dried within about ten miles, it was that hot.

The target for the day was Reno, NV, after settling into our Motel we went to check out downtown Reno. It is definitely not in the Las Vegas league but we had a great meal and managed to lose a few dollars!

Day 14 Wednesday 13^th August

A quiet day for the run in to Hollister. We were one day ahead of schedule so phoned ahead to check if Corbin could take my bike a day early for the ride in appointment and they could.

Reno west on I80 was a fantastic early morning ride. We were climbing and descending on fast well used roads. The truck lane was very rough due to the use of snow chains in the winter, but for our ride it was a perfect day. Cloudless sky and as the sun rose the temperature climbed to 95 degrees.

The Garmin GPS V got us directly to Corbins doors, however it did take us on a detour from I5 south for some unkown reason, but it did get us directly to the door. We had a great welcome and a quick tour of the factory and a chance to discuss the options for my new seat.

Jack could not have been more helpful and was amazed we had ridden from UK to have a seat made (we had come for Sturgis and the H-D 100^th as well though!).

We met up with a couple of bikers who were riding our route but clockwise as opposed to our anticlockwise route. They gave us good hotel information and reassured us about riding the Mohave dessert, they max’d out at 114 degrees! They were riding a sponsored trip to help AID’s victims.

We went into Hollister with the idea of recreating the famous picture, but a meal was our main priority and that particular picture will have to wait.

Day 15 Thursday 14^th August

Today was the day to get my Corbin seat sorted out, I left the small Motel (Wiebe Motel, 1271 San Felipe Road, Hollister, CA) and arrived at Corbin at 07.30 to find I was fifth in line – these Americans are real early birds. There were some nice custom bikes, one was in for a rework, Corbin prides them selves on the good job they do.

Gustava spent a lot of time discussing what I wanted in a seat and showing all the materials available to create my dream of matching the colour combination of silver and black to match the anniversary colours. We decided on grey leather with a Carbon fibre print and gloss finish, the same for the sides but in black. It was supposed to take four hours and ANT turned up at noon but I knew it would be longer so asked him to ride ahead to Ventura and I would meet him at his brothers house.

The seat was finished and my old one packed up for return to England and I was on the road at 4pm. A little later than planned but I still wanted to ride the Pacific Coast Highway. The first destination was Monteray on the coast then US1 south. The road lived up to expectation; it was fantastic. Various parts of very twisty and betters newly made sections. The two surprise things were the strong smell of seaweed and the fantastic cars that were running the road, Ferraris were common place mixed in were classic Cobras, Austin Healy 3000, Corvettes and the list goes on. The ride was going really well and being on my own I could set the pace as conditions and the law allowed.

Sun setting over the Pacific and I still had many miles to run. It was now I had to set course for ANT’s brothers house in Ventura. I got on US101 and ran south very quickly. The Garmin GPS V took me onto US154 then back onto US101 which I thought was an error but later found out it cut off a corner and was a local short cut, one up for the Garmin. It also took me directly to Pete’s out at 11pm. What a great day, getting a new Corbin unusual seat and riding the Pacific Coast Highway.

Day 16 Friday 15^th August

I awoke to the first day of the trip where the Harley would play no part!

We were staying at Peter and Wendy’s who are ANT’s Brother and sister in law, his nephew Avery a lively 4 year old was in residence too. The house was a typical USA family home with a TV the size of a multi plex screen and 500 channels. We went to Piru Lake with the water ski boat and two neighbours, Billy and his kid brother Cory. We had a fantastic day on the lake, brilliant sunshine and a really fast boat. I got dragged around the lake but could not get up, I’ve been told it is a 52 year olds problem!

In the afternoon we were taken in the Limo (Wendy runs a Limo business) to buy snake skin boats for ANT’s good friend back in Carnaby.

That evening about forty of Peter and Wendys friendsjoined us for a BBQ. It was brilliant, we were made so welcome, just like visiting dignitaries. Steveo and his wife even bought us a Ventura H-D T.shirt each. Stevo also gave me two wonderful CD’s he had brought to the Party, what a guy. He was drinking well late even though he had a 4am start for work; not sure if he made it!

Day 17 Saturday 16^th August

Our biggest day in the saddle at 494 miles and our first time night ride, arriving in Pheonix, AZ at 12 midnight. We got to sleep at 12.30 and had a 4am morning call booked, was this a holiday or an expedition; you decide. We slept like babies.

On the way out of Ventura we came across Laidlaw, a massive H-D dealer. It appears it is the biggest H-D dealer in California. I bought a summer pair of gloves, a quart of oil and a long sleeve white t.shirt for dessert riding. I put the t.shirt on straight away, as we were about to get our first taste of the Southern Desserts.

As we headed east on I10 we arrived at Palm Springs and I remembered the dealer location so we checked it out. Kevin remembered me from my January visit when I did a fly-ride out of Las Vegas. The local HOG Chapter had an event but we were on a tight timetable and had to take a rain check.

Fabulous dessert ride maxed out at about 102 degrees f. The white t.shirt worked, soaking it at each stop, it acted like Air Conditioning for bikers. We stopped at Dessert City an old highway 10 location that time forgot. The food was wholesome and an actual 50’s style café it was perfect.

Day 18 Sunday 17^th August

Phoenix to El Paso, what a day!

The 4am start worked; we got on the road and burned some rubber. Not much to report just a bit of concern about the entire roadside warning signs. Watch for Deer. Watch for sand storms, zero visibility. Watch for busted tyres. What else could befall us?

We arrived at El Paso and in the out skirts there was a small town called Anthony, we had to take the picture!

And there it was the biggest H-D dealer in the World! We had to hole up in El Paso ‘till the dealer opened

The biggest H-D dealer in the World

Day 19 Monday 18^th August

Having arrived in El Paso late the previous evening and discovering that Barnets was here we had decided to have a late start and visit the biggest Harley Davidson Dealer in the World; could not miss such and opportunity could we?

Because the hotel had an Internet connection I stayed home and did the technical email chores whilst ANT searched the shops for our requirements. Both of us having completed our chores we were of to Barnett’s. No words can explain this HOG heaven; they even offered ANT a free service! This dealer has everything.

The range of bikes is totally unbelievable. The picture I choose to include shows my spare ride courtesy of Barry Soanes and the fact that a Harley dealer is selling this particular bike, see it is a Harley. They had an FXRT for sale and a Moo Glide. In the car park they had a line of all the old bikes they had taken as trades and you could make an offer for, just right for a project bike. There must have been at least ten Iron Barrel Sporties.

We finally dragged our selves away from this HOG Heaven and set out East in I10. We had our hottest point at 115 degrees Fahrenheit. ANT had bought me a biker’s air conditioning bandana, it contains crystals that you soak in cold water and it lasts all day, worked perfectly. We stopped every 50 miles, got inside to air conditioning and drank galloons of Gatorade and water. If you ain’t peeing you ain’t drinking enough.

It was now about 1,000 miles since the Corbin seat was fitted and I can now say it is without any doubt the most comfortable bike seat I have ever ridden on. I did 80,000 miles on the H-D Zeppelin Air Seat and thought that was comfortable but the Corbin is unbelievable. Not only does it look real special but it works real well too.

Day 20 Tuesday 19^th August

Today was to be a day spent on I10. This is a long road, you can go from California to Florida on this one road, our destination was only to be San Antonio today so it was an easy day of about 300 miles.

We first came across Davey Crockett’s memorial. Notice I had my Racoon hat on! Talking of Racoons it reminds me of the Road Kill we have seen. Today was the most exotic. We saw Armadillo, Porcupine and Racoon, along with the more normal deer, rabbits and gofers. In the air there were soaring birds that I did not recognise. They were all black but looked very much like some kind of Eagle.

On I10 we saw a sign for Sonora Caves and as we had loads of time we went to check them out. It was a good decision. They were very enjoyable.

We arrived in San Antonio too late to visit the Alamo so it was hotel up and see that in the morning.

Day 21 Wednesday 20^th August

Remember the Alamo? This statement for me will never be the same again after visiting the Alamo in San Antonio, TX. It is downtown and easy to find. There is no entry fee but you are asked to donate to the Daughters of the Alamo charity. Having had a Davey Crockett racoon hat for several years it was a pilgrimage to visit the place of his heroic death fighting to hold the Alamo against Generalisimo Antonio Lopez Santa Ana, Dictator of Mexico and his army.

Was he a freedom fighter, was he a terrorist, was he a defender of the Sate of Texas; maybe all the above but he was fighting and standing for what he thought was right. The Alamo story is told in detail at this Historic site and worth the effort to check it out.

Having done my chores of writing postcards the next difficult thing is to remember to post them, so to solve that I stick them inside the windscreen, done it for ages. But on I10 one of them decided to fly off, lucky for me eagle eyed ANT spotted this and we managed to retrieve it, the cards are still not posted but at least they are not on the highway! Next job is to post them! All clouds have silver linings and for us on the freeway it was finding a number plate surround for San Antonio, it’ll look good on ANT’s wall.

Lunch was in Luling, TX, a small town off I10. I have found that if a town has 2 exits marked on the freeway then it is a reasonable assumption that you can come off at the first exit and ride through what used to be the old highway and see old time America, which is usually full of the stuff you want to see. In Luling we found a florist and a great lunch stop.

The ride to Houston was straightforward on I10 East again but for a thunderstorm where the road was awash within minutes. We stopped at an under pass and watched the traffic still thundering through even though the surface water was at least 4” deep. A Chrysler PT Cruiser went by at 60mph with the front near side-wheel stationery! I know about aqua-planeing but have never witnessed it, scary but we did have a large solid concrete block we could scoot over if necessary.

The rain eased to a downpour and we were back on the road and the GPS earnt it’s corn by directing us to Lee’s house, what a great tool.

Day 22 Thursday 21^st August

This is what the half waypoint was about a 5,000mile service for the bikes. Lee had organised work for mine and Ant’s bike plus a small job on his own. We got up early, well early for us, but for the Curcio household 4am is the usual rising time!

We were soon heading south to Angleton the home of Goe’s Harley-Davidson. We stopped at a Mexican restaurant for Rancheros Huevos and fresh squeezed orange juice, it was brilliant. Then off to Goe’s for our three 9am appointments.

Pete sorted out the worksheet and we settled down to a day bumming around the dealership. I had to have one more long sleeve white shirt; this had become my riding apparel in the hot climate. It does nothing for the tan but I feel nice and cool in the high temperatures and high humidity. We did not get back on the road ‘till 4pm; a whole day and Lee did not get his floorboards fitted! Not very happy about the time as our planned bike clean and laundry time was all used up. However the service was top notch and since then I have done 800 miles and the bike is running the best since I’ve had it. So quality takes time!

On the ride home we spied an American over statement! A small community of some 600 soles had decided to name their meeting hall as City Hall, a grand title for a shed!

That night was a brilliant Sirloin steak BBQ with Lee, Ivonne and Manuel. Several bear and plenty of BS later and it was a relatively early night, we even managed an evening of laundry but I put too much soap in and everything has white patches!

Day 23 Friday 22^nd August

Today we had to do some miles and a 5am start was required. A cup of coffee and we were saying our goodbyes. Manuel had made a galloon of lemonade for the road, which was well used during the hot ride towards Memphis; thanks to Manuel! Lee, Yvonne and Manuel were also off for an early start to Louisiana to collect some money they had left at the Casinos in Louisiana! I wonder how they faired?

We used the Sam Houston Beltway, a toll road that circumnavigates Houston. We were well on the way by 6am and four toll plazas later were on our old friend the I10 heading east. We had been using the I10 for six days now and arriving at Baton Rouge would head north on I55, but I10 would continue all the way to Florida.

The day was looking good as we passed our first vehicle of the trip. But it was not a fair contest as he was running with a flat! At LaFayette we saw a new H-D dealership being constructed on the side of the Interstate, it also proclaimed that the existing store was just off the highway, and as we needed fuel we decided to find it. It was a busy good place to be but I resisted! Bought nothing, which is another first of the trip, could I do it again?

Back on the road about thirty miles west of Baton Rouge a stilt road over the swamp started and continued for more than twenty miles. What a piece of engineering; sorry but cannot stop on the Interstate for a photo. It would be like stopping on the M25 to take a picture of the Queen Elizabeth bridge over the Thames and we would view that as stupid so why do it when abroad?

My BJ air horns were called into action just as I started to cross the Mississippi. As I started to climb the roadway up to the big metal bridge structure there was an on ramp. The traffic on the on ramp was slow and a town car with two Q tips (a reference to cotton wool buds as old folk with white hair that looks like two buds sitting in their seats) came up on the ramp, the driver did a cursory glance in his mirror and I knew he had missed me, then he attempted and illegal lane change across a solid white line to avoid the backed up traffic. But that cursory glance meant he was going to sideswipe me. Bring on the BJ’s. I gave them their all. It had the desired effect as the Q-tip must have thought a Semi (articulated large truck) was bearing down on him because he stayed in lane and braked, as he should have in the first place. A couple of miles later on they passed me with waves of acknowledgement and apology. See BJ’s are not a luxury but a necessity in the jungle we call everyday traffic.

The day was going well and we passed our second vehicle of the trip! We had begun riding at 6am and now at 9pm I was getting tired and it was very dark. No street lights and a cloudy sky meant total black out. It is times like this that I am glad I heeded the advise given in Easyriders magazine, that is a 100w head light and wiring my passing lamps so I could switch them on or off, and not automatically go off on high beam as the factory wires them. So it is with full illumination I cautiously rode at 55mph. It is a balance to ride so you can stop in your own light bean and going so slow that a rear end strike becomes a possibility. As we entered the Interstate from our last fuel stop a critter ran across the road. It looked like a short cat. This was a timely reminder to me of how dangerous animal strikes can be. A police car came onto the highway from the central median in front of me, and sped North. A few miles further on I noticed an unusual smell, then too late to even think about braking I ran through the entrails of some animal that had been hit by a car, a bit further on and the damaged car with the Police car in attendance was on the central median. I decided to come off the highway at the next lodging sign.

That’s it 643 miles, our biggest day in the saddle and two vehicles overtaken and oh by the way we started to see packs of Harleys heading North for the home coming, out trip was getting close to its main objective.

Day 24 Saturday 23^rd August

Having spent the night unmolested in Batesville (is this where Norman came from?) we were focused on Gracelands, Memphis, TN. It was an easy 50-mile run North and the Garmin GPS V soon had us cruising Elvis Presley Boulevard. It is amazing that one person who died 16^th August 1977 can still generate so much interest, so much passion and so much money!

The complex is brilliant with four main attractions; The Aircraft, His Cars and Bikes, Walk a Mile in my Shoes Movie and of course Gracelands itself. We opted for the Platinum Package at $25.25, which gives you the lot. Elvis’s Harleys were great, his cars were great, the planes were fantastic but we definitely saved the best to last and Gracelands really lived up to its billing. The personal headphone tour guide is full of information, music and sound bites from the King. Gracelands although not a massive building has all it would take to keep a king happy and in the luxury he had become accustomed too.

It all ended at the graveside of him, his parents and his grandma. Poignant, respectful, thought provoking a tour worthy of the King.

We ate, gift shopped and posted cards from this shrine and bumped in to two fellow wedding guests who unlike us had found the infamous wedding at Harney Peak! I usually meet this couple at St.Patrick's day in Dublin, saw them in Venice and now in Memphis, TN; I really should try to remember their names – sorry but an old fart like me has limited grey cells left!

It was about 4pm before we took the obvious picture at the gates of his home and got on the road to Nashville.

We were picking up large groups of Harleys as we were now on the official South Central Ride Home schedule and Nashville was tonight’s stop. We did not have tickets for the big 1,000-person party and it was late getting into town, another stressful night ride through the wooded Tennessee country before we holed up in Nashville. The first large HOG group we came across in a gas station was from Mexico City and in the same station was a small group from Milwaukee! They had ridden south earlier so they could participate in the Ride Home to Milwaukee and also ride home to their homes! This I think reflects the spirit of the event. Arriving at about 8.30pm in Nashville I spotted a HOG patch and went to get hotel information from this fellow biker who I assumed was from Nashville, however his patch revealed he was from Ecuador! Is this an International event or what?

The hotel had all we needed, clean bedding, shower and Internet connection. Technical chores done, detailed maps down loaded, H-D dealer located and a nip with Uncle Jack and we rushed headlong into the arms of Morpheous.

Day 25 Sunday 24^th August

What a start to today! As usual in motels ANT and I were busy packing up and loading the trailer with the room door wide open when two women appeared and one asked to use the phone and the other the toilet! We hurriedly stashed away all valuables and kept an eagle on them. The one on the phone was recounting her night where she had been mugged and her car stolen, funny conversation and we were waiting for the sting. It did not happen, it was just two sad people hit on bad luck; but it could have been any sort of scam as we were really on the wrong side of the tracks!

Heading North towards Indianapolis I set the Garmin GPS for the H-D dealer in Bloomington, about 50 miles South of Indianapolis. We got their address from the H-D dealer locator on the web and found they were open from 11 to 4pm on Sundays. The Garmin took us North for about twenty miles on the Interstate and then onto US431 White Creek Parkway. This is a beautiful winding road through suburbia then into the Farmlands of Tennessee and onto Kentucky. The first fuel stop we spoke with a tobacco grower who was telling us the market was declining. It was interesting to see the plants and the leaves drying and being smoked, the sharp end of the drug industry called tobacco!

The road we were on was like a perfect Sunday ride out. The area is the Purple Martin capitol of America; it is a bird! It arrives from Argentina to summer in this heaven. The other feature to strike us was the number of Churches, all with full car parks. Roadside signs also indoctrinate the holy word to all who could read; mainly the messages were revolving around abortion issues. This is the Bible belt and after a few hundred miles of this we felt cleansed. Hallelujah!

South of Owensboro we had the best breakfast on the road so far and some small town home comforts. It was quiet Middle America at it’s best. US431 changes into US231 and continues to meander North through old forgotten towns that the Interstates have long since by passed. In Russellville we spotted a fire station and the siren on the front was to die for; imagine one of these babies strapped to the front of you HOG!

Arriving at the dealer’s 5minutes after it closed a helpful mechanic checked out ANT’s rear brake that had not worked properly for two years. It appears the wrong brake fluid had been used and rotted all the rubber components in the system and riding with a heavy trailer and a single front disc as all the stopping power available meant for reading the road well ahead! Bloomington H-D did not have the parts to sort out the brakes but the cool computer system advised the parts were available at Southside H-D in Indianapolis. He would have done it at his home if the parts had been in a real bikers biker, thanks WC.

Day 26 Monday 25^th August

For us an early arrival at Southside H-D but ANT’s bike was about third in line! They did a great job and had his bike ready for noon, giving us enough time to smooch about and get small time chores sorted.

We collected ANT’s bike and washed the pair of them ready for our lap of the Brickyard.

It is billed as the World home of motor sport. The hall of fame was brilliant and we gathered together for our historic lap of the famous Indy 500 circuit. After the two laps we gathered in Pit lane to be wined and dined a truly brilliant total experience, but our great day was not over yet.

Some American guys staying at our hotel had recommended we went downtown to Madison and try a blues bar called Slippery Noodle Inn. Finding it the classic right place right time situation. Canned Heat was playing in the back room, yes The Canned Heat of “On the Road Again” fame. Blues is my favourite genre of music and to be in Indianapolis in a bar with a maximum of 150 people listening to the best blues band I have ever heard was awesome drinking long neck Bud’s right from the bottle, some cool guy!

We moved onto the Red Garter, again by recommendation, but it could not compare to slide Blues guitar played by the best. I must be living my full 52 years of age when my first lap dancing bar experience was not as good as listening to 5 old guys play Blues. So it was one for the road and back to the hotel perchance to dream of the Blues.

Day 27 Tuesday 26^th August

A quiet day and I think we needed it. ANT and I both had chores to do. Mine to update the web Milwaukee Missives and other email stuff and ANT once more got the short straw and the laundry run. However whilst on the laundry chore he managed to shop at Dollar, he loves that store! It was a starightforard ride North mainly on Interstates but we did manage about 60 miles on older US Highways which I prefer. We had been warned that traffic around Chicago was a nightmare so we took the Toll road which cost about $3.50 for the smooth stop free run to circumnavigate Chicago.

ANT had explained to me about a restaurant called Outback. On a previous visit to Florida ANT had discovered Outback and even modelled his Restaurants menu on the Outback menu. The food was very good if a little expensive, however you get, mostly, what you pay for and all in all it was worth it.

It was now dark and once more the Garmin GPS V earned its keep by successfully navigating us around the Milwaukee Interstate system to get us to Riders Ranch. Because we arrived in the dark and because of the USA safety consciousness (read risk of law suite) we were not allowed to set up camp on the main site but had to camp in a small area reserved for after dark arrivals. This was the ideal opportunity for the lifetime ambition of sleeping in the open next to my motor-cycle. Done it, won’t do it again! The humidity was as if there were a constant drizzle and in no time we were soaked but warm. The usual rally site enjoyment of pissed people returning to their tents at 2am and feeling the urgent need to check if their rev limiter does still work and the equally strange people who start their bikes when they wake at 5am just to see if it will start then leave it running for fifteen minutes just to ensure every body in earshot knows their ride really does work. Oh what joy, later I am off to the Hilton to see if the hotel room reserved for H-D of Bergen has actually been reserved for me. Some serious bike overloading was obvious too as this guy shows!

Day 28 Wednesday 27^th August

First day at the objective of the visit.

In my view the trip already had been brilliant. I had been doing what I like in life, riding my bike and having fun. I have been on Harleys for 13 years now and heard and seen a lot that I would not otherwise have done. The most important thing in my view is riding your bike and having fun. 6,650 Miles is the current score, so I have been definitely riding. Fun in many forms, getting goodies for the bike (today’s was a highway style peg system for the rear seat passenger from Kuryakin), meeting people from all over the World, renewing existing relationships with like minded people, music of all types, today was Jeff Beck and BB King! What more could I ask for.

Well Milwaukee appears to want to give us more. We left the West Bend venue, where 100,000 Harleys were parked, at about midnight and guess what the freeway over bridges were packed with local people waving at us. This phenomenon had been happening all day, every where we went Milwaukee people walked up to us and welcomed us to their city and was there anything they could do for us? And meant it!

Today we finally met the wedding couple, yes Stuart and Linda of Harney Peak lost wedding fame. It did happen and it all worked fine for them. They had seen ANT and I riding through Keystone but had not managed to attract our attention. The wedding was in fact about thirty miles from Keystone not the advertised five. The important thing is Stuart and Linda are one and happy and had a great wedding, I guess we were so close to being there they knew they had our love and support. We also met Iain and Dianne Graham today who also had been trying to contact us in Keystone, O2 has a lot to answer for as no signal from their USA partners AT&T caused our communication problems. Stuart and Linda met Joe and Julie Horsefield and apparently have recorded a video message for me with them! What a Harley family, must go as I have some Fun to collect today, there are loads of dealer parties going on, this shows Hal’s.

Day 29 Thursday 28^th August

The Hilton bed worked great, I am definitely not a camper. I understand the camaraderie around the campfire but the discomfort of the tent does not balance out the good stuff camping can give. Coffee in the room, shower, Internet connects, a bit of TV then a stroll around downtown Milwaukee looking for breakfast. We found a coffee shop that was part of a large de-partment store and I spiced up my cd collection with their buy four get one free. I even managed to get two Canned Heat cd’s, which are brilliant.

We decided to do our respective own things today, 24/7 of each others company and it was time to strike out alone!

I got my bike and headed out to the Harley Experience on the shore of lake Michigan. It was a great show. There were three main exhibits covering History of H-D, the icon and advertising type stuff and the current model & accessory range. I drank it all in. They must have had good taste because from all the bikes they could show ANT’s Moo Glide was there in all its pristine never been ridden glory, and it looked real cool. From the promotional stuff I decided to ride North on the lakeshore road to visit Suburban H-D in Theinsville, WI, because they had the Booze Brothers on and a dealer party.

The ride North was through the Milwaukee residential area. It is very picturesque and homely. Many residence had signs out welcoming us to Milwaukee, this had been a feature of our return home, people everywhere spontaneously giving you a warm welcome. Many had set up little stalls selling soda, water and chips (crisps); some even offered bike washes.

Theinsville had set the red carpet out for bikers. Main Street was closed off except for bikes and vendor stands filled the area. The actual dealer store was well stocked and staffed and planned to be open ‘till midnight. I got a replacement led turn signal bar as mine had had the left side out for all the trip and I wanted the bike to look her best in the H-D parade. They could even fit it for me and squeeze in a 2,500-mile service. All with a HOG discount.

Whilst I was waiting for the service I met a sprightly 80 years old who had walked across from her sheltered accommodation to join in the fun and add her welcome to the returning Harley Biker types. Her son said she could not walk to the pharmacy two blocks away but when he suggested she turn up at the dealer party she virtually ran the two blocks to join us!

Jim in the Service department and his team soon had my bike fixed, I stayed to see the Booze Brothers, guess who they tribute, then I was on the road to meet up with ANT. In the gas station there was a smart Hot Rod. It had a 6.5 litre V8 and when the guy pulled out he show boated with squealing tyres and a burst of neon brightness, cool!

I got back to Riders Ranch just as the threatening storm broke and rain started. ANT had been partying, it was midnight, and decided to sleep in the tent but I wanted the luxury of the hotel and rode the 30 miles into downtown Milwaukee.

Day 30 Friday 29^th August

A late wake up and I drifted out of the Hilton to the parked bike and rode towards the State Fair Park to see another H-D event. On the way I stopped for breakfast and realised it was nearly noon so I just went straight into lunch. I had a steak sandwich, which consisted of a huge lump of prime rib; satisfied it was into the State Fair Park just off I95.

There were more of the same with all sorts of temptations to satisfy your biking dreams. Two lads from Kuwait Chapter got the picture they wanted! I revisited with Uncle Jack and did the walk through show, also visiting with a three times Bull Ridding Champion called Tom. I told him how much I admired the way these guys earn their living by sitting atop of a few tons of muscle that was intent on killing you! They get big rewards when they are the best, multi-millionaires, but for each one who made it there are many who failed. NASCARS were also offering the Tom Petty experience with three laps in a Nascar for $99. It looked great but I resisted.

Leaving the fair park I noticed a bikini bike wash. I have always wanted to get my bike washed by two bikini clad girls and had seen many, most of them were staffed by ladies who would look better in something other than a bikini; if you get my drift. But Kymie and Tia definitely belonged in bikinis but due to my Old Fart Status I checked with previous customers to ensure the bikes were washed properly! Tia was in line to be a police officer (in black) and Kymie was studying to be a Psychiatrist and they were both earning money to help finance their studies, so not only did they look good cleaning my Glide but I was also contributing to their college fund!

I went out to Riders Ranch and finished detailing the bike so she would look perfect for the Parade on Saturday morning. ANT joined me and we rode back to the Hilton for an early night as we had a 3.15 wake up call.

Downtown Milwaukee was buzzing. There were block parties everywhere, it would have been rude to ignore them so we joined in the one on Water Street and had an earlyish night!

Day 31 Saturday 30^th August

This was scheduled to be one of the big key days. I had been so pleased when my application to be in the main even parade had been accepted. I could fly the Geordie HOG Chapter flag to show all the World that we were represented. My delight turned to surprise when I received the detailed directions for the event, we had to be at the first rendevous point at 4am. Yes 4 in the morning. Most people do not realise that there are two 4 O’Clocks each day, one of which you should be asleep. Three alarms set we rose at 3.15am. Coffee, ride 16 miles and we arrived dead on schedule, along with about 1,00 others.

About 15 of the UK contingent managed to get together. I met many old friends who had been doing exactly as ANT and I so the bull shit stories flowed about our various adventures and the number of miles travelled to get to the Milwaukee homecoming. I think Mick from Ireland got the prize at 7,400 miles. It never matters how far you came always someone came further.

Many people there had Heart ‘n’ Soul pins, Mal from last years H’n’S who we did a birthday cake for was there and recounted her tale of a rear wheel blow out on their Road King and subsequent off. The bike had been made roadworthy and her and her partner were on the mend from relatively minor bumps & bruises considering the high speed off. Barry was riding the bike carrying Mal and Rainy City Flag. There was even a guy from Chelsea and Fulham chapter who took the banter of their Chapter never leaving the safety of the M25 ring road! Aire Valley were represented and two Centurions from Diva Legion had the best dressed award.

The martialing was spectacular and we were soon on the move to the main martialing area at the state zoo – a very apt place for 10,000 bikers at 4am! To try to give the ride justice in words is impossible. Pictures also cannot aptly relate to the emotion of this parade and the people who lined the 7 mile route and the welcome they gave. I suspect the video footage will have the same problem of relaying the feelings of such an awesome event. My hand hurt from all the ‘High Fives’ given on the move.. Ordinary Milwukee folk were at every vantage point, they had made welome signs, they shouted and cheered in their welcome, one sign I noticed that summed up what they were saying said “Come as a Visitor, leave as a Friend”, and for sure they meant it.

We parked up emotionally drained and the day had barely started! Entertainment was available at many sites. I enjoyed the arena where the Maryland Police Motor Cycle drill team did there stuff, also a Monster Ford Truck and Craig Jones wowed the crowed. At 3pm ANT and I met at the pre arranged meeting spot as we had been separated earlier and returned to the Hilton for a Siesta perchance to Party somemore before Saturday closes!

Day 32 Sunday 31^st August

This was the actual Party day for Harley-Davidsons 100^th birthday and all about town was the talk of the main act at the party. Who would it be? Rumours were rife and those in the betting were, Rolling Stones, ZZ Top, Bruce Springstein, AC/DC and many other biker band icons, but who would it be?

Let’s get back to the start of the day, three simple objectives, get my Corbin seat back rest sorted, decamp from Riders Ranch and go to the biggest party the world had ever seen.

I had been looking for the Corbin Semi at every Dealer Party, event ground and H-D site but to no avail, but last evening the two guys we had been talking to told us the Corbin booth was at House of Harley. We soon found our way to Corbin but it was the minor showing and I was soon directed to their main semi show 18 miles North. Steve could not have been more helpful. I had a minor problem with the back rest and he got it OK but insisted on making and sending me a new backrest because it was not perfect, methinks I am having to send two Manchester United soccer shirts! Steve remembered my visit to their ride in offer at Hollister and was making sure I was happy with my new investment. I have had many positive comments about the cool look of the seat and I can attest to its comfort, as now Jen can but I get ahead of my story.

Off to Riders Ranch to de-camp. I had only one night there and ANT had had two so it was not quite wasted and we had met our friends from Scotland on the site. All packed and back to the Hilton to see if I could fix the BJ’s who had died on me after six miles of constant use in the Parade, it was a 20amp in line fuse, which of course I did not have. Barry, of Rainy City Chapter, had given me a new mini fuse as I had the normal spade fuses not realising that the 2003 bikes had switched to the mini fuse, be aware!

So it was now off to the party. Only 2pm and the main act started at 6pm but entertainment would be from 2pm. The Veterans park is massive and because of people flow management we walked a looooong way! On the way we met an old chap who just happened to be the owner of Laidlaw H-D the biggest dealer in California, I guess he was well in his sixties and had been earning a living from H-D since 1953! A real nice guy and he was pleased I had used his shop!

Once more ANT set off a security alert by trying to enter the party with his own beer! It works to be slightly lower profile as I slipped in with my carry out! Unusual for me to be the low profile person!

We were treated to H-D executives and a history tour of the Motor Company, along with a $7,000,000 donation to MD from all Chapters, worker H-D people, what a gang! The pressure was building who would the main act be? A fly past added to the expectation. I was focusing on trying to capture the US Bank building that all week had their building showing HD in the office lights, I nearly got it!

Tim McGraw was first up, a country & Western guy. He appealed to the younger country audience. Then Kid Rock who appealed to a more general grouping and the big act Elton John.

He was poorly received by the homo phobic narrow-minded group that is a large demographic of the Harley customer profile. For me I like Elton John and he did all his massive hits. Many people left in deflated expectations that had been pumped up by the rumour mill. Mick Jagger had been seen in town. Bruce Springstein had ridden his Harley in the Parade. Godzilla, ZZ Tops custom Cadillac, was in the parking lot. All these rumours did was build expectations.

A free party put on by Harley was attended by an estimated 150,000 people and a free Elton John for me was fine, I think if it had been announced who was the main act earlier then there would have been a better reaction. I think Elton was the wrong choice, even if it were Princess Diana’s six anniversary of her death and his close association with that, not many people would be aware of that and why should it have made a difference?

Those who stayed were treated to a high octane, mega hit, act that did not detract from my party mood but added to it. And those who left missed the best pyrotechnic display of the century!

A free bus ride back to the Hilton for a nightcap and Elton’s limo was dropping him off; or so the rumour went! Was it him, I don’t know but after a mega evening, a couple of Uncle Jacks and maybe, the limo was certainly impressive enough.

Day 33 Monday 1^st September

My big day. Collecting Jen from Chicago. I had checked the previous day and she had completed her first big solo adventure with no problems. So it was south on I94 to Chicago and we had an early start.

The roads were full of early risers heading home after the party of their lives and believe it or not there were still Milwaukee folk up at dawn on the Interstate over bridges with signs saying Thanks for Coming, and See you for the 105^th. Not only a spectacular welcome from Milwaukee but a spectacular send off too.

Garmin V had us spot on course for the Best Western at O’Hare and about five miles out we had to don our wet weather gear for the first time in 33 days! It was pouring, but no matter I was back with my honey. We breakfasted and sorted the luggage so we could leave quite a bit at the hotel we would return to at the end of our adventure. We also decided on the route for the last 10 days to take a leisurely ride up the East side of Lake Michigan to Canada and exercise a pincer movement into Niagara.

The wet stayed with us and got even worse, so of course it was not long before Jennifer got the blame for bringing it with her!

Only one photo was taken today of a visitors centre sponsored by Dorothy Buell, with a name like that we had to stop. But no Eric was not related! Back on the road and as the evening came on the cold did too and cold and wet must be reserved for riding at home so I stopped at the first available Motel.

Showered, changed, refreshed and feeling a little more human the next item on the agenda was food. We were told the nearest restaurant was 1 mile away so in typical American style, and as the rain had stopped, we mounted the HOG's and for me the first ever time on my Harley in shorts, open sandals and sans-helmet.

You guessed we had not got 100 yards and I was pulled over. The officers could not have been nicer explaining that Michigan did have a helmet law; it was an offence to ride without your license. They did not ticket us but had a laugh and sent us back to the hotel to correct our misdemeanour. Is every body this nice in America? We had managed 7,000 miles without a single brush with the law, Jennifer arrives and hey presto? It comes in three’s so will be careful today!

Suitably law abiding once more we set off to Tom’ Buffet. Tom had been in China during Chairman Mao’s regime and had escaped to Hong Kong then followed family to the Land of Milk and Honey. At 51 he had made a nice business, a nice wife and three great kids, one of which had won a college football scholarship. It was my use of Cantonese in his restaurant that brought him to our table to discuss life and everything. Nice bloke, nice family, nice meal so if ever you are in South Haven, MI go to 364 Broadway and enjoy a good meal in good company and tell him Dave sent ya’ all!

Day 34 Tuesday 2^nd September

We hit $2.00 per gallon today! The Americans are up in arms, what do we pay in UK? £1.97 per litre, which works out at £8.87 a gallon. I know the maths is suspect and US Gallons and UK Gallons are different but the bottom line is we pay a lot more!

The journey target today was Petoskey in NW Michigan. We had been advised that the lakeside road to the East of lake Michigan was very beautiful and so far it was living up to expectations. It was time for breakfast and I did my usual by coming off the Interstate and looking for a small family diner with lots of trucks parked outside. It took a while but we found what happened to be the last drive in diner in Michigan and that part of it closed a bout two years ago, but the stalls were still there top be seen. The service was excellent and the food matched the service.

As we were about to order a group of four approached us and in true welcome to USA style were soon asking and chatting about the trip we had done and what we were about to do. The chat ended in one of my Chapter business cards pens being handed over. The people I give these babies to love ‘em!

A few minutes later, Tim, the guy we had been talking to, returned and invited us for a few hours sailing on his 42’ yacht, if we had time. If we had time! We jumped at it. This is so typical of USA hospitality it did not phase us as much as it had when we first arrived, but this was one very neighbourly offer. Given directions we were left to finish our breakfast.

We made a couple of wrong turns, came across a US Navy submarine and eventually found the Yacht club. Introduced to Tim, his wife Julie and their good friends from Texas Don and Karen we were soon aboard and being drilled in the crewing of a large yacht. Jambalaya, the 42’ Sabre yacht was in great shape and we were soon skimming across Lake Michigan, three road tramps on a luxury yacht being fed and watered in very hospitable style. I was even given a shot at the helm!

The day ended at Manistee, not Petoskey as the plan said but the plan was flexible, so flexible in fact that we decided to stay two nights in Manistee and follow Tim and Julies advise and explore the coast up to Traverse City.

Day 35 Wednesday 3^rd September

The salmon were running, it was fishing season, we were in the best place in North America, and ANT is a fisherman! 'Nough said.

We had a full day in Manistee so ANT could fish whilst Jen and I explores this beautiful coastline. We set off bright and early to a cloudy sky and hadn’t got far before the rain started, so we stopped for breakfast. The weather pundits warned us of dire weather coming in from the North but undeterred we decided to hug the coast and head north. We used MI22, which ran right along the coast, we passed Arcadia and entered Frankfort.

The road had reminded me of the Lake District in no small part because it was raining! But as we arrived in Frankfort the day began to brighten. The Bank Holiday of Labour Day had been on Monday, it was Wednesday of the same weeks and many of the tourist shops had closed for the winter. Labour Day marks the end of the summer holidays, but no matter, it was a quaint area and there was still lots for us to see, and the beach was lovely and we had it almost to ourselves.

Traverse City has a Harley dealer and I needed a new back tyre. I was down to 2mm and I like to change at that tread depth. I wanted a Continental that I find works well on the glide especially in the wet compared to the hardwearing standard Dunlop fitted. The dealer only had Dunlop but it was the new stickier version so I went for it. Two mechanics set to straight away, and one of them noticed my rear belt pulley had a lot of sharp edges, as the chrome surface was broken due to sand from our dessert rides. It was a consumable therefore not covered in my warranty, they had one and the bike has been good tome so I should be good to her!

Dunlop fitted, new pulley and back on the road to see how ANT had done. He had caught over twenty fish, but we still relied on dial-a-pizza for our tea! I went to the Internet Café and brought home the long necked Buds for a party on our back porch of the Motel, which overlooked the river, another cool day on the road was done!

Day 36 Thursday 4^th September

Even though the plan and route had changed if we were to enjoy Niagara and get our front wheel to dip in the Atlantic we had better start motoring and today was the day.

A 6am start and gassed up we were heading East across the middle of Michigan. The GPS took us a way I had not seen on the map and it was good. A slow drizzle accompanied us and heavily forested road each side along US55 to Cadillac meant I kept a very slow pace ever watch full for an animal strike. The conditions for a strike were perfect so caution was called for. Jennifer spotted two deer at the roadside that I had not seen this made me even more nervous. But as the sun came up, visibility improved and the drizzle ceased. It started to be real good, except I had a headache and was cold.

Breakfast after 200 miles, an Anadin Extra Strength and a sweater and I was a happy bunny again.

At one stop we saw an Amish driving his one horsepower buggy but were too slow to get a picture! We also saw a garage owner who modified his car to flatten the dirt around his workshop, very enterprising!

After we entered Canada we saw lots of name that reminded us of home, in fact we crossed the Thames to arrive in London, spooky!

A long day in the saddle ended with a search for a suitable hotel in Niagara Falls, this achieved a swift Chinese meal, second one of the trip, and an early night, perchance to dream if the Falls would live up to expectations. I wonder?

Day 37 Friday 5^th September

A full day in Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada to see if they were up to their top billing.

Yes! Yes! Yes!

Fanblodytastic, the last time I gawped in awe like this was on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon and I was doing it againg looking at the majestic Canadian Horseshoe Falls, The bridal Gown and the US Falls. We had been advised to visit from the Canadian side and it proved to be good advise, we also took the $90 Canadian tour, which showed us the whole nine yards andmore. We had a great day and the first time I have maxed iour my digital camera 128MB memory card and got through two sets of batteries. Lucky my belt and braces ensured I had a back up card and spare batteries. Indeed the single best picture was taken with the new batteries and back up memory card:

Notice the rainbow and Maid of the Mist with the powerful Falls as the backdrop. Awesome. The tripincluded a visit to a CarmaliteMonestry, Minolta Tower, Inside the Falls walk, Spanish Cable Car, Whirlpool, and the ultimate half hour thrill ride on the Maid of the Mist.

I am now back in the hotel for a siesta as on Friday nights a firework display is held over the illuminated Falls, should be good!

Day 38 Saturday 6^th September

Big day in the saddle and therefore an early start but we could not leave Niagara Falls, Ontario without one more look. We rode Falls Boulevard as the Sun rose over the falls and crossed the old Rapids Bridge into America. The border guard had the usual charisma that I thought was reserved for tax collectors and accountants only but this gut took the biscuit for being a dower jobs worth front line of defense of America! It takes all sorts.

We headed East towards New England in the Fall, well it was not quite Fall but close enough. I saw a red fox today, as road kill of course, and I think I have seen all North American Wildlife, some alive and kicking but mostly as Road Kill.

As we pounded the pavement heading towards New York and Boston we saw a bronze statue on the back of a flat bed truck. It was a ring of people holding hands in prayer with a New York fireman in the circle. I surmised it was a tribute to be unveiled later this week as it was the second anniversary of 9/11 as the Americans call it.

It was a long day and for the first time of the trip we had trouble finding a room for the night. Eventually we succeeded and I realised I had achieved another first for the trip in that my digital camera had not been used once all day!

Day 39 Sunday 7^th September

Today we decided to visit Marthas Vineyard. A ferry runs from New Bedford to Marthas Vineyard and we got on the first of the day. Foot passengers only so the HOGs were tied up at the ferry landing and we were in tourist mode. The weather was perfect blue sky and warm, so up on deck to top of the tan.

On arrival we decided on a 2.5 hour coach tour. It was a good decision and believe it or not there were other Geordies aboard! The trip covered the whole island, its history and famous people connected with it. Of course the infamous Chippaquidick bridge and the Kennedy Car Wash incident was covered in detail!

The island is idyllic and has no main land franchised outlets, so no McDonalds, Taco Bell, Wendys etc, which to me meant a realistic individual great place to be where the islands true character shone through.

The weather stayed perfect for the whole day. We took the 3pm ferry back to New Bedford as I had an onerous task to perform.

It is almost a year to the day that I carried Deny Mitchels coffin at his funeral. On that day I collected the bike I am riding now and escorted the funeral cortege on it. I attached a black ribbon of respect to the bike and have taken Deny with me on all this years tours. As a low mileage rider Deny has completed all 19,000 miles with me this year, I guess his highest mileage year. I had decided to leave a tribute to Deny in the form of a Harley Davidson flag pole, a Flag of St.George and the black ribbon. With the Geordies on the bus a lady had been present at Denys funeral, imagine the odds of that to meet a lady from Sunderland, on a Marthas Vineyard tour bus who had attended Denys funeral almost exactly to the one year anniversary. The omens were with me and my pilgrimage. Rest in Peace Deny Mitchel.

Day 40 Monday 8^th September

A one-photo day! This is it, New Bedford, MA Harley Dealer and it was closed ‘till ten. So we did the miles.

We got as far as Haven Lock, PN. The ride had taken us South along the Massuchsetts coast towards New York. The traffic was quite heavy and we took the ring road around the North of New York. We crossed the Hudson River at about lunchtime and I did my usual off the Interstate to find lunch. At first I thought I had made a mistake because we were in a ‘stockbroker belt’ residential area. We asked directions and were pointed towards the Sidewalk Café, 482 Piermont Avenue, Piermont, NY. (www.thesidewalk-café.com). It was fantastic and the owner, John, sat-a-spell and was interested in our adventure as so many Americans had been.

Back on the road and the complex Interstate entry system beat me and we soon found ourselves crossing the Hudson again! A six-dollar toll compounded the mistake but we soon were crossing the Hudson for the third time that day; but the meal was worth the effort.

After 435 miles we found Shirley’s Motel and stayed the night, no restaurant but Mama & Papas Pizza would deliver, even though it was a twenty mile round trip, believe it or not but after the ten mile ride it was still hot.

We chewed the fat with some other travellers and got some political insights, one country boy was even wearing Billy Bob teeth – but these were for real!

Day 41 Tuesday 9^th September

DeBois, IN was our first stop of the day. ANT needed an oil change and I needed a passing lamp. It was a great dealer, built in an old golf ball factory. Bikes sorted and it was off to the DeBois shopping Mall. Jen and Ant love the Dollar store.

We had a 6.30 appointment in Cleveland, OH to meet up with the guys from Buffalo Chip. Jack Green had invited us to stay in his electric spare bed! ANT got the sofa.

They laid on a BBQ of the best steak and the coldest beer. Several biking friends showed up and Party on. We wanted for nothing. We ended the evening in their ‘cinema’ with surround sound and bull shitted the night away.

Jen and I set of for the infamous electric bed, but luckily the plug had fallen out!

What a fantastic party we had. Good food, good booze and more importantly good company.

Day 42 Wednesday 10^th September

Jack and Annie, our most excellent hosts, decided that riding Harley’s is more important than work and would ride east with us towards Chicago. They had heard of Tony Packos the best Chilli Dog restaurant in the World. It had been made famous by Klinger in MASH who was always talking about the best Chilli Dogs in Toledo, IN. The walls are covered with signed Dog Buns. The VIP’s who signed them are World famous, Alice Cooper, Robert Kennedy, Billy Bonds (ZZ Top) and hundreds more. The food lived up to it’s top billing and all too soon it was over and time to bid fond fare wells.

We stayed on US 20 west and rode through small time America. Today we rode route 66. Well almost. It was State Route 66 not US66 but we cheated a little. Another milestone happened today in that we topped 9,000 miles travelled. Not as much as I had planned but we had been stopping and smelling the roses, not just blatting out miles. It had worked well and we had seen a lot.

Overnight in Angola, IN, some of the town names are marvellous, we could have been on a World tour. I have seen Rotterdam, several Paris’s and a few London’s but Angola!

Tomorrow is the last day on the road, I think I am now ready for reality and the mother of all credit card bills!

Day 43 Thursday 11^th September

The day started out nice and slow as we had less than 200 miles to get to Chicago. Jen and ANT wanted to go to the Dollar store that was next to the Motel. I was pleased and surprised to find that next to the Dollar was an independent Harley Dealer, so we could have an Angola Harley-Davidson T-Shirt; result!

We continued west on US20, we had time and to ride the US Highways instead of the Interstates usually results in a better ride and an insight to real America. We were not disappointed as we rode along US20 we kept seeing signs of Amish people so we stopped at a furniture store whose strap-line was ‘Heirloom Quality’ and indeed all the furniture was solid hard wood and built to last but with modern concepts as well; such as the TV station that had room for DVD’s and the super size USA TV’s.

At the crossroads of Shipshewana, Indiana we found Menno-Hof an Amish-Mennonite Visitors Centre so we stopped to see what it was all about. A very interesting visit and one I would recommend if you were in the area. After the tour we stopped for lunch at an Amish restaurant and were treated to home cooked excellent quality food.

Back on US20 and we were soon in the outskirts of Chicago. I stopped for the final gas up and a rest before tackling the Interstates of Chicago. It was late afternoon and the Interstates were packed full of commuters. To follow the GPS, watch for road signs, keep an eye that ANT was in sight and watch the drivers meant 100% concentration. I saw the Volvo drivers illegal lane switch before the Volvo driver even knew he was going to do it and yes those BJ’s worked once more and focused his mind to do the right thing! I am convinced that high decibel horns are a worthwhile addition for situations like this.

Day 44 Friday 12^th September

This is it; the bike is safely on board a pallet ready for shipment back to the UK. Just over six weeks and they have flown by. I write this last Milwaukee Missive in Chicago, O’Hare Airport, having just paid $5.25 for one small draft beer!

I have hours to wait in the airport and a train ride from Manchester to South Shields after our early arrival in Manchester tomorrow, I may be home in time to see Sunderland beat Crystal Palace at the Stadium of Light Sunderland!

So what has the trip meant?

The People.

We have met many friendly and nice people on the route, their kindness and thoughtfulness has been a refreshing change from what we have come to expect in life. Everyday of the trip an act of kindness from a complete stranger can be reported. Thinking back some human inter-actions have gone above and beyond the norm.

The three friends we met at Buffalo Chip, Billy, Russ and Jack they looked after us there and asked us to stop by on our way through Cleveland Ohio where even more of their biking friends got to know us. Jack and Annie shared their home with us and all their in. Si Casa, Mi Casa.

The lady in Brigham City, Utah who invited me into her home to connect to the World Wide Web so that I could communicate with the outside world and spread the Milwaukee Missive. Also near Brigham City the guy who loaned me his Honda quad bike to ride to the Porta-John.

Peter, Wendy and Avery who not only asked us to stay in their Ventura home but also put on a fantastic BBQ with about forty guests, some even bringing gifts for us (thanks for the CD’s Stevo!).

Lee, Ivonne and Manuel who looked after us in Houston ensuring our bikes received the service they had earned.

The family in Indianapolis who went home and returned with a new phone connection cord for the laptop, without even waiting to be thanked. They knew of my plight because I asked directions to Radio Shack and when they knew why went off to solve my problem, leaving the cord with the waiter so as not to disturb our meal.

The folk of Milwaukee as a whole group, welcoming, offering friendship and going the extra mile in our leaving by once again lining the freeway bridges, wow!

Tim, Julie, Dan and Karen who adopted us as crew for the day on their luxury sailing yacht. Their hospitality was unequalled, a very nice aside from our biking days.

Meeting the folk from Sunderland on Martha’s Vineyard and the significance of Trudi also being at Deny’s funeral the previous year; what are the odds of that?

Meeting Harley Folk from our own shores, bumping into them randomly and losing the wedding at Harney Peak!

As I said every day was punctuated with a random act of kindness or hospitality, just people getting on with people.

I have grown in my relationship with ANT. We have been together twenty-four seven for 44 days, at times a strain, at times a joy but always working together for the adventure.

Jen too adding herself to the mix. After 30 years together the four weeks apart were long but what joy to meet at Chicago so she too could join the adventure, and of course add her spice to the mix.

The Places

United States of America have surprised us as we went. The known visitor attractions, along with the unknown. Every State has its attributes, every road its appeal, every place its wonders to explore. What was the best? South Dakota had a lot, Mount Rushmore, Custer State Park, Crazy Horse, the Needles Highway and Devils Tower.

Then onto Yellowstone and Grand Tetons wonderful. Riding US89 south of the Grand Tetons to Brigham City, what a great biking road. The first ride across a dessert, the Salt Lake Dessert was so interesting.

The Pacific Coast Highway, US1, you have got to ride this and doing it at sunset across the Pacific adds to the glory of it all. Riding I10 from Los Angeles all the way into Baton Rouge Louisiana, this is one long road and much of it in 115 degree heat! It actually goes all the way to Florida. Stopping in San Antonio and discovering all about the Alamo and where my hero Davy Crocket perished.

Crossing the Mississippi and turning north through Tennessee and Kentucky where the scenery was excellent and we both felt cleansed from riding past all the churches.

After the Milwaukee party we saw the North West of Michigan, which has a beautiful coastline and some lovely roads to ride. Crossing into Canada for the natural highlight of the trip in the form of Niagara Falls. This wonder of the World lives up to its top billing then some. We managed to see it at all the times of day when it can take on such a different perspective, from Sunrise to Sunset, with a firework display thrown in.

Then New England in almost the Fall. Marthas Vineyard is perfection in an Island and has solved the dilemma we have wrestled with in that when we win the lottery where will our holiday home be, well it will be in Marthas Vineyard.

Surprisingly for me our ride back towards Chicago demonstrated what a beautiful State Pennsylvania is. Such large expanses of woodland.

The Events

Sturgis, 500,000 bikes, good weather and any extra for your bike you can think of. Pure heaven. Buffalo Chip has to be experienced to be believed. The bands we saw, the sites we saw, the people we met made Sturgis a must do event in your life, go on do it.

Milwaukee 2003 for the 100^th, well I rode mine there and enjoyed every moment of it, the party Harley-Davidson prepared for us reflected the commitment they have to their customers. To organise an event that went so smoothly for so many people must have been a logistical mega task. It worked. I witnessed many happy people, I was one of them, I was there.

The Toys.

My Garmin GPS V must be one of the best Navigational aids a motor cyclists can dream of. It is not the total answer but it definitely is a fantastic information input system that helps you get around. To be perfect it needs to be more user friendly and have a bigger memory, a colour screen would also help.

The lap-top, obviously you can get by on a bike ride without a lap top but the three tasks it was needed for it completed perfectly. Firstly as a back up and cd burner for all the photos, I have 1,000 images on file now. These are set to bore all my friends and to use whilst illustrating the adventure I have experienced.

The digital camera has ensured the adventure will be saved for posterity and enable sharing of experiences.

My Altberg boots and FXRG Harley rain gear have ensured a comfortable ride in all conditions. The new Arai/J&M helmet with built in microphone and ear speakers has been very comfortable and worked well.

The real prize must go to the centre of it all my FLHTCUI Harley-Davidson Ultra Classic Electra Glide. This is me second Glide and it worked perfectly. I had two 2,500 mile services and one 5,000, a new tyre, a new drive belt pulley and one new passing light. All these were normal wear and tear. The pulley had been damaged by sand whilst crossing the dessert it’s hard chrome surface was damaged leaving sharp edges which could have damaged the belt. The fact that I ride a Harley-Davidson was also the centre of the reason for going to America, not riding a Harley would have meant that 5 years ago at the European 95^th I would have not organised to ride with ANT for the100^th Anniversary.

A fantastic lifetime adventure, now where next?

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